In case there is one thing that pretty much every indoor cannabis grower battles with, the heat which is generated.
Throughout the summer, the mix of hot climate, growing in a small space, and heat produced from grow lights and other equipment drives temperatures far beyond what is required for growing healthy marijuana.
Assuming you need your plants to come to yield, you need to take care of the heat.
Fortunately, there is a ton you can do to control the heat. Growers have been effectively managing heat issues for quite a long time. Thus, can you too.
Hence, we have ot you the best ways to manage the heat in your grow tent. Read along to know more.
- A Detailed Guide On How To Cool A Grow Tent
- Get your hands on an Air Conditioner or Fan
- Work on Your Venting System
- Invest In A Swamp Cooler
- Monitor and Control Humidity
- Reevaluate Your Lighting
- Protect or Relocate Your Grow Room
- Reevaluate Your Reservoir Placement
- Increase the Carbon Dioxide Levels
- Start Using Micronutrients
- Promote Good Air Circulation
- Change Nutrient Concentrations
- Run Lights at Night
- Introduce a Light Mover
- Put Ballasts Or Drivers Outside The Grow Tent
A Detailed Guide On How To Cool A Grow Tent
Depending upon the place where you stay, the kind of grow lights you are using, and different elements, you might have a major heat issue or a rather small one.
The cooling methods that we will be discussing below are very effective. Yet, most will not be sufficient all alone unless you have a limited amount of heat to manage.
If you have a rather serious heating issue, you will need to merge a few methods.
Get your hands on an Air Conditioner or Fan
Nothing prevents heating issues better than an air conditioner. At the point when you think of an effective cooling technique that can be monitored and controlled properly, an air conditioner along with a thermostat is the best way to cool a grow tent.
A window unit probably will not cost you much; however, do your homework well before buying an air conditioner. Growroom size, heat-gain figures from lighting or different installations, and seasonal outdoor temperature cons all affect a climate control system’s viability and operating costs.
If you can not increase the heat source or essentially do not have any plan to reallocate the heat by placing a fan simply over the tent to blow hot air away from plants.
Work on Your Venting System
Install or increase your use of input and exhaust fans to vent hot air and replace it with cooler, fresher air. This process is called air exchange, and it is a great method to help with controlling high humidity, as well.
Maximize the potency of your fans by setting your input ventilation work in the coolest region you can find. Also, consider putting resources into an automated system that automatically increases and lowers the fan speed in light of temperature fluctuations.
Invest In A Swamp Cooler
Swamp coolers, or evaporative coolers, use one of the basic standards of cooling to reduce the surrounding temperature. While changing over from a liquid to a vaporous state, substances like refrigerants and water absorb heat. A fan drives hot air through water-dampened media, evaporating the water when it comes to a swamp cooler.
These outcomes in a temperature drop of up to 10 degrees. Misters play out a fairly same function by creating tiny water drops that evaporate very quickly. In any case, as there is a danger of swamp coolers and mitres increasing the humidity, they probably won’t function well for your set-up.
Monitor and Control Humidity
Low relative humidity increases the effect of heat on plants. Plants use transpiration, breathing out water vapour through their leaves, to help with remaining cool in a hot climate.
If their efforts are not sufficient enough, they become stressed, and vital functions like photosynthesis are slowed down or stopped.
Increasing the relative humidity establishes a climate where plants feel the heat a bit less. You can mist your grow room a couple of times every day or put resources into a humidifier. A dependable guideline is to keep the humidity above 40 per cent for naturing, blooming and fruiting plants and a bit higher—above 60 per cent — for young plants and greens.
Reevaluate Your Lighting
In an encased space, lights can get hot very quickly. However, there are ways to limit the effect of heat from grow lights and other tools. Obviously, among the best choices are upgrades to lights that radiate the least measure of heat, like LEDs, or use air-or water-cooled reflectors.
The only con is that these options can be a bit expensive, however, particularly on the off chance that you have invested a lot in lights.
Protect or Relocate Your Grow Room
Lighting may be the primary cause of dangerous heat strokes, yet it may not be the lone wrongdoer. A poor insulation on a south-bound wall or a grow room located right under a hot rooftop can also deteriorate heat issues.
Adding insulation and moving the grow room to the basement are the two ways that can help. Below the level are usually cooler in light of the fact that the surrounding soil gives natural insulation.
Reevaluate Your Reservoir Placement
In nature, heat variances are less articulated in the soil than they are over the ground. Thus, plants are more sensitive to overheated roots than they are to increased temperatures on their stems and leaves.
Other than stressing over the plants, a nutrient arrangement that is too hot can turn into a breeding ground for moulds, mildews, and dangerous microorganisms. If your supplement reservoir is situated within your hot grow room, you can wipe out potential issues by moving it to a cooler area.
Increase the Carbon Dioxide Levels
Another well-known technique for managing heat is to build the amount of carbon dioxide present all around. Carbon Dioxide is a fundamental part of plant photosynthesis. At the point when levels spike from an average of 400 ppm to somewhere in the range of 1,200 and 1,500 ppm, plant photosynthesis increases, which helps the plants with performing even effectively, maintaining an average capacity in hotter conditions.
Plants ingest Carbon Dioxide better in bright light, just like the intensity emitted by High-Pressure Sodium (HPS), Metal Halide (MH) or the more up-to-date and rather expensive LED lights.
Tiny grow room growers can use dry ice or the fermentation of yeasts to produce Carbon Dioxide. Different types of Carbon Dioxide can be brought into the indoor nursery using bags, bottles, cans, pads, etc.
Start Using Micronutrients
Adding or expanding the concentrations of micronutrients might help with working on your plants‘ natural protection. For example, silica as potassium silicate can help plants with creating much stronger cell walls, shielding them from heat protection.
It is imperative to note potassium silicate may not be included in your supplement blend, yet it tends to be used as a foliar spray.
Promote Good Air Circulation
Keep the air in your grow room moving around and among plants to stay away from problem areas, help in photosynthesis and assist with producing specimens that have robust stems and leaves.
In nature, plants are not unmoving. A tiny movement is also an exercise for them. Use multiple fans to guarantee great airflow or put resources into an oscillating fan.
Change Nutrient Concentrations
Transpiration is a sort of plant air conditioning. To play out this accomplishment, plants increase their water intake. This can agitate the delicate balance in a hydroponic set-up as roots take up more water yet more nutrients, as well.
To keep away from issues with damage from natural minerals like boron, copper, manganese, nitrogen, and phosphorus, change the nutrient-to-water ratio in the repository.
A few growers recommend decreasing nutrient concentrations by about 20% in hot weather conditions. It might also be important to increase the air circulation in the reservoir to increase the amount of dissolved oxygen.
Run Lights at Night
Evening and overnight temperatures are cooler than daytime, so it is a good idea to use grow lights with a higher temperature when the relative temperature is lower.
Another benefit is that a lot of electrical utilities charge lower rates during non-peak times, usually from 7:00 p.m. to 7:00 a.m. When you run your lights around evening time as comapred to the day, you end up saving a lot of money and energy.
Introduce a Light Mover
To help better oversee light resources, install a light mover. A motorized light mover transports grow lights to and fro along straight or curved tracks, delivering illumination across a more extensive region and reducing the problem areas and issues with canopy overgrowth.
Using a light mover can also decrease the requirement for extra lights and the heat they generate.
Put Ballasts Or Drivers Outside The Grow Tent
In case you are using HID lights and plan to stick with them, you can reduce their heat yield in the grow tent to a certain extent by putting their ballasts outside the tent. The ballasts produce a decent amount of heat themselves, so having them outside can help.
Indeed, even with LED grow lights, this could be an option. A lot of new grow lights now come with external drivers. Quantum fixtures and the Spyder style installations both can work.
If you have a LED grow light with an external driver, it should be feasible to detach it from the installation and place it outside the grow tent. That can affect the heat inside the grow tent, and particularly a scaled-down grow tent with no ventilation.
Keeping your growing climate pretty cool to boost the growth and yield is maybe the biggest problem every marijuana grower faces. But again, there are a lot of things you can do, yet all include time, effort, and money. However, they are all pretty much worth it.